Plunder Weapons: Verified Guns, How to Get Them, and When to Use Them

Three firearms are verified by name in Plunder: the Pistol, the Tommy gun, and the AR. Everything else you might spot — "better weapon" loot drops and the sniper rifles dogs carry — is either unnamed or exists only as enemy equipment, so this page does not guess at names. Numeric damage, fire-rate, capacity, range, or price values are not documented for any firearm, so the guns are compared here by how you obtain them, how their ammo behaves, and what they demonstrably do in fights against dog threats.

Verified weapons list

Two things deliberately stay off this list. Loot can hand you a "better weapon" — real and worth grabbing, but its name is not documented, so it is not listed under a guessed one. And the guns, sniper rifles, shields, and batons the dogs carry are enemy equipment, not part of the verified player arsenal.

Weapon stats: what is actually known

Plunder shows no numbers for these guns — no damage, fire-rate, capacity, or range values, and no shop prices — so treat any guide quoting exact stats with suspicion. What fights do show:

• Fire rate decides straight duels. In one player's rooftop fight against the strongest dog, his armor was already broken and two enemy bullets cost him 40% of his health, yet he rushed in and won because, as he put it, "My fire rate was much faster."
• Headshots finish bulldogs. The explicit advice is to aim for the head to actually kill them.
• Long range is the pistol's weak spot. Two sniper-armed dogs guarding a deep hallway were judged very difficult to shoot from that distance — backing off beat trading shots.

How to get weapons

Every route below is shown in play:

1. Free starting kit (zone zero). A fresh spawn leads straight to the weapons pickup — the pistol and the bat are waiting there at the start of a run.
2. Dog-world beginner chest. Immediately after the elevator drops you into the dog world, a beginner's chest sits in front of you holding a pistol with some ammo, a baseball bat, and a healing syringe. Take everything.
3. Search containers. Treasure boxes and chests around the map can be searched for gear — one box yielded a pistol, bullets, and a syringe, and another chest held a second pistol.
4. Loot drops. Searched containers and defeated dogs can produce a "better weapon." Pick it up and judge it in the field; its name is not documented.
5. Buy from the lobby shop. Extract with your loot, sell it for coins, then spend in the lobby: guns, weapons, armor, medkits, and backpacks are all listed. The recommended loadout is the Tommy gun and the AR, plus armor and a single medkit — "You don't really need a lot" — with a backpack for a better start.
6. Rebuy after death. Dying loses every item on your person and in your backpack, all guns included, and the gear has to be bought back from the shop. One player lost three good guns this way and nearly drained his cash rebuying everything — extracting alive is part of keeping a weapon.

Ammo and reload rules

• Guns come supplied with ammo. The beginner-chest pistol includes some to start with.
• Bullets are a separate loot item. Searched boxes give "pistol, bullet," and houses hold loose bullets worth grabbing — "I've got some bullets. I'll take the bullets."
• Ammo is countable and scarce. One player pushed a second floor with only 10 bullets left and judged that far too few for the two shield-bearing dogs up there; running dry forced a switch to melee.
• Guns run dry mid-fight. An empty gun stops contributing, and the documented fix is fetching more ammunition — searching bodies and containers — then reloading before rejoining the fight.
• Don't count on buying ammo. The shop list shows guns, weapons, armor, medkits, and backpacks; buying ammo is never shown, so plan on looted bullets.

When to use each weapon

• Pistol — the fast finisher. Pull it to finish weakened dogs off quickly. It is lethal against regular dogs and even shield carriers, because a carrier's large shield slows him down and you can shoot him down before he touches you. Indoors it doubles as a distance tool — in a crowded dog lair, shooting from range is the safe play.
• Tommy gun and AR — the shop upgrades. These are the two guns recommended buying after your first extract, alongside armor. Nothing documented ranks one above the other, so treat both as the step up from the starting pistol.
• Match the gun to the threat. Supermarket dogs shoot back, shield dogs advance slowly under big shields, and snipers punish short-range weapons at distance — and fire rate is the trait that decided the documented duel with the strongest dog.

For threat-by-threat tactics against these enemies, see the Plunder dogs guide.

The melee fallback (not part of the gun roster)

• Baseball bat / wooden bat — in the zone zero kit and the dog-world beginner chest. The advice for when the ammo is gone: "Worst case scenario, use your baseball bat." Four solid hits put a red-hatted dog down.
• Club — the desperate switch after running dry against two shield-bearing dogs, a move the player himself called a stupid decision. Against shield dogs, melee is a last resort, not an equal alternative.
• Pipe — a purchasable melee upgrade from the shop, bought "to increase my attack power."

These are melee weapons, not firearms — they matter on this page only as the documented out-of-ammo fallback.

Once you know which gun you are carrying, the Plunder combat guide covers the fighting rules themselves, and the Plunder giant dog page covers the biggest threat you will point one at. Balance updates can shift the roster, ammo behavior, and shop list, so double-check them in game before relying on them.